Tuesday, August 9, 2011

Governor's Island: The Home of Ghosts

This weekend I spent a day exploring Lower Manhattan with a friend who lives in the area. He graciously attempted to be my tour guide for the day, beginning with a stroll along the Hudson River followed by a quick excursion off the Island. Living on the UES I am getting used to the East River and the small parks that line it, hosting several basketball courts, small picnic areas and even a public pool (although I won't be taking a dip in there anytime soon). The Hudson River is far more luxurious and upscale in comparison. Home to many multi-million dollar yachts, its shoreline is marked by cafes, dining tables and sculptures. Parallel to the shoreline is a sea of sky scrapers and important landmarks, such as Trump Towers, Goldman Sachs, Wall Street and the site of Freedom Tower (the first building to replace one of the fallen Twin Towers, and absolutely stunning in design). It is lined by the business Mecca of New York, and you can literally see the difference below your feet. I just so happened to look down as we walked past a homeless man (maybe another sign of the wealth in the area) and low-and-behold I found a $20 bill! What are the chances? Wait, you will see where I'm going with this soon...











Our destination along this path was the Governor's Island Ferry, a free ferry ride to an historical island. This piece of history is only open to the public Friday-Sunday and all Monday holidays.  We did not know much about the Island prior to our journey, and were left with little to see upon our arrival, except for this eerie feeling that we had stepped onto the set of Shutter Island. As we exit the ferry, wondering what we have walked in to, I look down again, this time finding nine $1 bills. Now, finding substantial money at all is rare, but twice in one day? It must have been either Lower Manhattan or Governor's Island boosting my luck that day! Now, back to the point...

We stepped onto the Island and noticed a lot of visitors on bikes, which we later learned personal bikes could be transported on the ferry. Luckily for us two bike rentals for two hours was $30, so we took the cash I found, tossed in an extra dollar, and rode on our merry way. Cheers to my good luck!


Now a little history-- the Island has gone back and forth between control by the British, Dutch, U.S. Army and U.S. Coast Guard. Originally controlled by Native Americans, "Nut Island," named after its abundance of nut-producing trees, was officially purchased in 1637 by Dutch representative Wouter Van Twiller. Twiller was lucky he only shelled out a few building nails, a string of beads and two axe heads because only one year later the Dutch government confiscated it.

Nearly 30 years later the British regained control over the Island, then referred to as "Nutten Island," when they seized New Amsterdam, renaming it "New York." The Island became the home to His Majesty's Governors over the course of a century until Britain's exile from New York following the Revolutionary War. America captured the Island, naming it Governor's Island, and utilized the land for an Army post. Governor's Island Railroad, a stretch of 1.75 miles of track, was even built to help haul supplies from the harbor to the warehouse. This post became a vital tool in regards to artillery storage and residential housing during the War of 1812 and Civil War.


In 1966 the Island was then turned over to the U.S. Coast guard, where it was the home to nearly 3,500 guards, becoming the largest American installation. In September of that year the Coast Guard relocated all residents and considered the Island a public property. Governor's Island is now a vacant island of dormitories, municipal buildings, a post office, a bookstore and rows of homes once occupied by high-ranking officials. The homes, distinct for their pastel colors (and only color on the island) reminded me of the historical homes in downtown Charleston, marking the post-Antebellum era. One of the homes we were able to go into where we found framed photos of various monuments, homes or views of the Statue of Liberty from the Island. Each home is unguarded, making it extremely easy for the rebellious travelers to venture off course (which crossed my mind, but I didn't sneak on this trip).

Governor's Island apparently hosts a slew of events throughout the summer months, even concert series and kid-friendly events. During off-peak periods the Island lays dormant and makes for a quiet afternoon of biking or even picnicking on some of the homes' lawns. It doesn't make for much of a history lesson (as the majority of these facts I've told you I found through additional literature), and should only be visited if you need a timeout from the City for a few hours or are interested in 17th century architecture.

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